Milano, Italy, December, in the Rain and Cold

                                 

 Arriving from sunny Bolzano in Southern Tirol, Milano, the perfect destination for a short week's visit, greeted me with cold weather and rain.  From visits decades ago, I knew Milan only as a hot and sunny city. I made the best out of the weather and enjoyed good food, museum visits, and (window) shopping.

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Unlike in other parts of the world, in Southern Europe, restaurant guests often sit outdoors - no matter how low the temperatures are. Often, heating devices and thick blankets are used to warm guests, and large umbrellas to keep the place dry. 

Other favorites of mine were the countless pasticerias, gelaterias, and 
chocolaterias. Indulging in their sweet dishes, cakes, cookies, and ice cream 
in a quality unknown in North America, I had no other choice but to
stock up on calories : )

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Pinoteca di Brera building

Also in Via Brera is a large outdoor market, offering lots of 

custom jewellery and other decorative items!

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The Gallery of Modern Art in Milan, known as GAM, 

houses the largest municipal collection of works belonging to the 19th century.

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GAM, Modern Art Gallery, Milan
Showing art that is more traditional than "modern". 

But it is a museum well worth visiting

Housed in a beautiful villa, I spend hours in the GAM, and it didn't cost anything, as it is one of the many museums in Milano that are free on Wednesdays or Sundays. 

Get a list from the tourist office or check the online guide here:

https://www.yesmilano.it/en/articles/free-museums-milano-definitive-guide

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Il Duomo is just a ten-minute walk from the Brera area.

I had planned to take the elevator up to the incredible rooftop to appreciate the grandeur of the Duomo and to enjoy the view of Milan. But this time it was raining, and I had to postpone it to a future visit. 

I went to the tourist information to grab the city's tram map. 

The nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, an attractive shopping arcade, was the ideal place for a cappuccino and to admire the beautifully decorated store windows. 

A perfect escape from the rain!

 

The Brera neighborhood is iconic and full of charm. My favorite place is 

the Botanical Garden, hidden behind the Pinacoteca di Brera. Surprisingly, 

quite a few flowers and bushes were still blooming on this mid-December day.

Brera, the artistic district, with charming streets, has beautiful buildings.

These historical buildings usually enclose a quiet courtyard.

The area is quite attractive, with plenty of bars and restaurants.

Another posh area with one designer shop next to the other is the area 

around Via Napoleone and its side streets. Window shopping at its finest for me!

A fantastic selection of Ballerinas in all colors. I could have 

bought a dozen - if they hadn't been so expensive. 

Via Napoleone with its posh stores

Quadrilatero della Moda is the fanciest neighborhood

Milano seems to be becoming green - at least on several high-rises. 

Balconies and terraces are planted with trees and shrubs.

A public phone like in the good old days. 

It might be historic soon, 

but it works perfectly. I tried it out!

When I was tired after visiting museums, I just sat in a tram and enjoyed slow "sightseeing" rides through the city.  I stopped where I saw something interesting.  That's my favorite kind of exploring a city.  However, I need to stress that Milano also has a great subway system. 

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Flying versus Driving the Shinkansen in Japan

No matter how tall you are, the ever-decreasing airplane leg room in economy class makes flying unpleasant — not only for tall passengers. I am only 5’3”, but I feel claustrophobic in airplanes. And if you have to place your small (hand) bag underneath the front seat, you are forced to sit pretty cramped during the whole flight.

There will be no room to stretch your legs. Walking around the plane is not an option on shorter flights as the aisles are often blocked by flight attendants pushing their carts or other passengers walking to or from the washrooms.

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Airports are often 20 miles or more from the city, which means sometimes an hour’s drive, either with an expensive taxi or even a more expensive airport parking fee. Add to this the hour or mostly hours waiting for security screening and the tedious boarding — the whole process is a nuisance! But there is a solution for these nasty flights:

What a relief, in Japan:
Board a Shinkansen, the high-speed “bullet train” and enjoy your trip.

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I liked especially:

• Shinkansens are departing from downtown train stations
• Relaxed boarding — no pushy fellow travellers
• No waiting times and punctual departures
• Entrances to the train cars are well-marked
• Lots of space in the overhead for all your luggage
• Japanese rail passengers are quietly traveling
• Electrical outlets for your laptop & phone
• WiFi worked well in almost all parts of Japan’s rail lines.
• Cleaner and spacier washrooms than in airplanes
• And if you travel “Gran Class”, you will be served lunch, drinks, dessert, and you will get a pair of slippers

See a short video about a First Class Luxury Shinkansen ride (Gran Class) here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8hjTsjEGpQ

It was pleasant for me that Japanese people did not talk loudly on the phone or among themselves when using trains or buses. Returning to Europe and North America and using public transportation was quite a shock …

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Japan Railway Passes

I bought my (paper) tickets at JR (Japanese Railway) stations or offices and learned that it is cheaper for tourists to purchase tickets for 3 or 5 days (in my case) than it is for locals. They state: “Multi-day Japan Rail (JR) Passes offer special, potentially cheaper travel for tourists than locals pay. But you should plan many long-distance journeys to make it cost-effective.”

In my case, it made more sense to buy those instead of having one JR-Pass for 15 or 21 days. With these passes, I could have traveled as long and as many routes as I wanted. Theoretically, I could have used them almost around the clock. I bought my passes separately for the area I traveled. On the Southern island of Kyushu, the next one I bought was in Shikoku, and then one on Honshu, the main island.

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Buying the 15- or 21-day passes online before traveling to Japan (and picking them up there) makes sense only if you ride trains almost every day and plan to cover the whole country.

• 7-Day Pass: ¥50,000 (Ordinary) / ¥70,000 (Green Car / 1st Class)
• 14-Day Pass: ¥80,000 (Ordinary) / ¥110,000 (Green Car / 1st Class)
• 21-Day Pass: ¥100,000 (Ordinary) / ¥140,000 (Green Car / 1st Class)
  Prices are for 2025
  https://www.jrailpass.com/the-japan-rail-pass

You might choose between digital and paper tickets.

I timed my travels, using the JR-Pass in areas where I would only stop overnight or for a few hours in villages, beaches, or to visit a botanical garden. Then I would stay for several days in one city, for example, in Matsuyama, Kanazawa, Kagoshima, or Yokohama. From there, I made small day excursions, and at the end of my stay, I bought a new 3-day pass to take the Shinkansen for the next day's longer trips.

The JR-Pass can certainly be used for regular trains too, not only to ride the Shinkansen: local trains, JR buses and ferry services, as well as airport transfers (e.g. Tokyo Haneda to Tokyo Narita, or from Kansei to Osaka and Kyoto).

Shinkansen trains typically operate from around 6 AM to midnight, with the last trains leaving in the late evening. Check schedules to avoid being stranded, as there are no overnight Shinkansen services.

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In economy class, I never reserved a seat, even though it is FREE. For 1st class Shinkansen seats (Green Cars), it is mandatory. It is also highly recommended to book in advance, especially during peak travel periods. You can book at train stations, online (e.g., SmartEX), or via apps up to a year in advance.

It was amazing to see these futuristic-looking trains arriving at the train stations. They stop precisely in their positions. Once a bar opens, passengers stream out, and on the other side, passengers enter. The Shinkansen train departs exactly at the set time.

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In First class, an attendant hands you the menu from which you can choose your lunch. In the economy class, passengers may unwrap the dishes they bought at the train station, directly in stores, or from vending machines, located on many of the Shinkansen platforms.

“Why it’s Great for Tourists:

• Exclusive to Foreigners: The JR Pass is specifically for international visitors, allowing unlimited rides on most JR trains (including Shinkansen) for a set period (3, 5, 7, 14, 21 days).
• Cost Savings for Long Trips: It’s designed for extensive travel, covering expensive bullet trains and local lines, which quickly adds up with individual tickets.”

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For more than 60 Years

Japan is one of the very few countries in the world where these high-speed trains have been successfully in use for over 60 years.

The “bullet train” was invented and launched on October 1, 1964, with the opening of the Tokaido Line between Tokyo and Osaka, just before the Tokyo Olympics, revolutionizing rail travel as the world’s first high-speed rail system. The train can run up to 380 km/hour (236.12 mph). High-speed rail in other countries is barely comparable to Japan's Shinkansen routes.

Shinkansen trains are lighter than other high-speed rail rolling stock, which makes them more energy-efficient and doesn’t damage the rail track infrastructure as much. Maintenance is easier and cheaper.

Also, the Shinkansen Train system has a proven safety record, with no fatal accidents ever during the last 62 years.

On my long-term trip to Japan, I only flew once with ANA from Tokyo Haneda to Matsuyama. The rest of Japan, all the way down to the Southern tip, I used the Shinkansen and local trains.

This way, I saw many landscapes and cities, using this comfortable transportation. And I could stop and stay randomly somewhere, which would not have been possible with air travel.

I also enjoyed the pleasant, clean, and attractive train stations. It was a pleasure to browse through the lovely shops, cafes, and delicatessen stores. Japanese train stations stand out against those in other parts of the world. And they are the safest (I think) in the world.

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A Few Videos From People Who Show Their Train Ride on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlGQxvXpoQw

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/T19thsGOSBs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG2Hy1zs5fg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0LXjUzp6Jc

Here is an Article from “Japan Guide” that Includes a Map of the Major Shinkansen Routes Plus Sightseeing Trips:
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2018.html

The country has immense distances: it is more than 3,800 km long, and the four largest islands are wonderful to explore, in addition to the many small, unique islands that are often a different world altogether.

Thanks for reading. Stay tuned for more about Japan and my trips there.

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Photo: Wikipedia